Saturday, July 30, 2011

Assymetrical Body = Two Pattern Pieces

   As I mentioned before, I am taking a class to make a sloper for a pair of pants. I have dreamed of taking this class for years.  When I am done, I will have a hip-block and a muslin that should fit me perfectly. It will have a waist band at my actual waist (where I bend.) However, I will draft a pattern from the muslin with a waist below my belly-button because I can't stand any pressure at all on my stomach area. I can also add other details to my pants. The hip-block will allow me to draft or alter store-bought pataerns to fit very easily.
      Pattern-making requires tough skin when it comes to fitting yourself.  It is a very honest look in the mirror.  You can't hide or disguise anything or it won't fit correctly. No spanx!
     I have had to face the fact that I am a full-diamond and extremely assymetrical in the front.   You begin by analyzing your body shape from several examples.  Average is what I would like to be, but instead I am an extreme.  A diamond is full in the hips (like a pear shape), and a round diamond also has some of the characteristics of a heart shape.  The heart shape is full in the high-hip and abdomen area without much of a bottom or hip.  The strange symmetry of my body only complicates matters more.
    I will always be cutting two different pieces for the right and left side of the front of my pants.  I am sorry the light is not better in these pictures.  I took them during my class.
     I had to slash and remove about 2 inches from the front left side of my muslin.  The side seam is at the top and the waist is to the left. 

     Then I slit up the middle and removed only about an inch from the right side.  The original plan was to use two darts because of the vast difference in my waist and hip measurement.  Unfortunately, that left quite a pucker in the front.  I now only have one dart in the front that had to be completely reshaped.  The science of all of this is fascinating, but the reality of my body is frightening. 
Have a lovely weekend.

1 comment:

  1. The time and effort put into making your own personally fitted pants sloper is well worth it! You will not regret it...
    Thank you for your comment, and your vote of confidence in the granny squares skirt. I'm making headway...